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The Balkan Music and Dance Workshops: re-thinking dissonance

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In her book, Dancing in the Streets: A History of Collective Joy, author and cultural historian Barbara Ehrenreich contrasts the “epidemic of melancholia” that pervades much of the modern world with the “phenomenon of communal, shared ecstatic ritual” that existed in our own culture even until the 17th century.

I touched into this phenomenon during last winter’s ever-rains when I began exploring Vancouver’s burgeoning Balkan music scene. There, I found a lively and musically nourishing community of musicians, dancers, and singers. At an Balkan brass band concert at the Russian Hall, I found a brochure for a music camp put on by The East European Folklife Center and I knew I wanted more.

So with the stench of burning police cars still hanging in the air (and local hockey riot pundits insisting that ‘we’re not like that’), I decided to leave Vancouver and follow a niggling intuition that a week of village life was just what I needed. My destination: The Balkan Music and Dance Workshops deep in the Redwood forests near Mendocino, California.

After the music finally stopped, we’d make our way back to our darkened cabins by flashlight and starlight. The next day, the whole process of singing, playing music, and dancing would start up again.

Dissonance + Consonance = Harmony

I soon found that the camp is an ideal artistic environment for anyone with a propensity for musical intelligence, and also it’s a rare chance to return to a rustic existence of woodsy cabins, merry village folk, and a healthy sense of belonging—even if just temporarily. Each day was punctuated with music, dancing, singing classes, and mealtime feasts. Evenings were given over to story telling, group dancing and intoxicating late-night music warmed by the huge stone hearth in the kafana (Balkan coffee house).

Rachel MacFarlane, general manager, cautioned me about the picture of the camp as a perfect village; although, in the next breath she praised the “collective spirit of goodwill” that stirred fellow campers to give up their cabins to accommodate a rained out gudulka class.

The Desire for Dissonance and Instability

“Western tonal music is based on the dichotomy of dissonance and consonance where unstable dissonances seek their resolutions to consonant sonorities”, states Kalin Kirilov, the camp’s expert on Bulgarian harmony. “If you compare music to energy”, he continues, “the dissonances carry a more powerful charge in comparison to the consonances”.

In 2003, Kalin Kirilov met a guitarist from Detroit who asked him if he could teach him to play Bulgarian music. At the time Kalin said it couldn’t be taught in a formal way, but the idea persisted with him and over the next few years he did figure out how to crack the Rosetto Stone of Bulgarian music. In 2007, he defended his dissertation, Harmony in Bulgarian Music. He now teaches music theory at Towson University in Maryland.

(6) Comments

Gajdar July 29th 2011 | 8:20 PM

Nice article on Mendo, Jason. I remember talking to you a couple times during the week. I'm one of the Rhodope pipers. Good job of getting the sense of the week and the dynamic. I've gone to Mendo, on and off, since the late 80's. We all tend to think of it as our "village". In some ways we recapitulate the dynamic in many Balkan villages where the men are all gastarbiters and come home for a few weeks in the summer for weddings, funerals, parties and family. There are many people I know there that I know nothing about what they do outside of camp. For example, one of the string players runs a public radio station, another is a Senior VP at a major software firm, and another is a semi-employed short order cook. Doubt you'd guess which was which from camp. Nobody cares, they're all monster players and that's what counts.

Alfred DePew July 29th 2011 | 9:21 PM

Good to be reading you again.

Helen Stuart July 30th 2011 | 8:08 AM

I knew something wonderful was going to come out of all those notes you were taking at camp!  Congratulations on a fine piece.  So glad you could experience it with us. 

Kristina Zalite July 31st 2011 | 3:15 PM

Thanks for an interesting article. I love when you wrote of the odd-metre and how "a body of conjoined dancers naturally moves", because that is how I feel when I play tapan and when I dance Balkan songs - that I am connected to others via the music! 

brad teeter August 1st 2011 | 5:17 PM

...the depth of understanding generated a feeling of gratefulness, pleased to be getting the inside story.... 

Katley August 4th 2011 | 7:19 PM

I love dancing to Balkan music, and the odd meters feel very natural (to me). Thank you for a well-written piece, next summer I'm planning on going to Balkan camp!