Welcome to Vancouver's final frontier
"Artists take something blank, and give it meaning." So says Jordan Eshpeter as we sit on a rooftop eating Thai takeaway from a food truck. Eshpeter and Tim Kolke, his colleague at Domain7, are my guides in Railtown.
To visit Railtown is to take a journey through time and space. Step from Vancouver in 2013 to Brooklyn in 2000: an industrial-chic canvas where you can make your mark on a still-developing corner of the city.
Historians often frame artists as gentrifiers, but there's a flip side: creative types get pushed to the fringes, which they then reinvent to suit their needs. Necessity is the mother of invention.
Back in the day, Brooklyn's DUMBO neighbourhood was, to the casual eye, an industrial wasteland. However, startups, artists, and galleries were calling it home; reclaiming the cavernous warehouse spaces and storefronts between the Williamsburg and Manhattan Bridges. Today, to walk DUMBO's cobbled streets is to rub shoulders with the creative elite and the hipsters who love them, and the once-empty storefronts are home to bars, restaurants, banks, and high-end apartment building lobbies.
So it goes with Railtown: this tiny 'hood is pretty much Strathcona's hat, defined by Columbia St. to the east, Heatley Ave. to the west, Alexander Street to the south, and of course the railyards to the north. This little 'hood will change, though, so check it out while it's still a bit raw. Because next come the condo towers, banks, and chain stores.
Find your niche
Eshpeter, Domain7's Biz-Dev & Marketing Lead, says that the company's move to Railtown was serendipitous: the search for a larger space brought them to where Domain7's energies could flow more freely as they shifted into more creative work. Kolke, Project Management Lead and Strategist, puts it a bit more metaphysically: "Railtown kinda chose us."
Domain7 moved into a storied space at the corner of Dunlevy and Railway: the open-plan office formerly occupied by Hootsuite. Besides the industrial-chic decor, the building also boasts a serene rooftop oasis from which to enjoy a sunny coffee break or lunchtime.
Since it hasn't hit critical mass yet (or gotten played out, depending on whom you ask), Railtown is still light pedestrian traffic. Do not mistake that for "boring", though. Railtown isn't a window-shopping neighbourhood: it's an urban-exploration neighbourhood. So let's explore.
Railtown neighbourhood map
On this map you will find everything mentioned as we scour the streets of Railtown, along with a few hidden gems. This map of Railtown is part of a larger project called Vancouver for Locals.
View Locals-Only Map of Vancouver in a larger map
Though Railtown is what you might call a "transitional neighbourhood", Domain7 has only been robbed once. Kolke says that a burglar somehow contorted past a set of window bars and in through a slightly-open transom, making off with a computer monitor. Presumably it was the only thing that could fit back out. The monitor had been slated for removal anyway, says Kolke: "everybody won on that one."
Devour Railtown
If you crave good food, you're in luck. At the heart of the 'hood stands the Railtown Cafe, home of the most comfortable comfort food. Eshpeter calls it "an absolute epiphany, potentially the best lunch spot in the whole city." The queue out the front door during the lunch hour seems to back this up.
Adds Kolke, "They do amazing things with beef brisket."
Railway St. is also a thoroughfare for food trucks. We availed ourselves of Super Thai, which shows up Mondays. Try the Pad See Ew, and load it up with four different types of spicy sauce. Yes, this includes Rooster Sauce.
Kolke says that Wednesday is the best food-truck day in Railtown, heralded by the comet-like arrival of Le Tigre.
Further toward Gastown you'll find Deacon's Corner, a no-BS diner on Alexander and Main. They've expanded into dinner and t-shirts.
If we color outside the lines, we can include Big Lou's Butcher Shop, on Powell and Gore. If you're too uncool for East Van, don't despair: Big Lou's sandwiches can also be found at Betty at The Burrard.
Vancouver Observer's Food Editor Lee Carney suggests turning your excursion to Railtown into a full-on culinary whistlestop tour by including Bestie for currywurst, and Pidgin in Gastown: "The protestors have moved on."
Drinking in warehouses
Once the work day is done, you can put down your tools (digital or industrial) and head for an early-evening drink.
On Alexander and Main, you'll find the Alibi Room, home to a staggering selection of draft beer as well as a small but tasty food menu. The Alibi Room is an enthusiastic booster of local breweries, and also serves up some remarkably tasty fries.
Strange things happen to mobile phone service in the basement, though, depending on your carrier. (Of course, you could pretty much say that about everywhere in the city.)
You may be hearing of it for the first time, but this place gets packed, especially on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings. Don't let the staff's hipster attire fool you: having gone here for years, I've always found the service to be friendly and enthusiastic. The gentlemen from Domain7 agree: "It's a welcoming place," says Kolke.
(Fun fact: Among the Alibi Room's original owners were Gillian Anderson, Jason Priestley and Tom Skerrit: it was the second location of a Seattle watering hole. It is now owned by Raya Audet & Nigel Springthorpe, whom you'll often find committing acts of customer service.)
On Dunlevy and Alexander, pop into the gorgeous warehouse space that's home to Vancouver Urban Winery. This place doesn't actually make wine, but it's where all the wine on tap in Vancouver comes from: they transition it from barrel to keg, and they're heavy on Okanagan wines. The reason you'll visit, though, is for the tasting flights and charcuterie plates. In other news, yes, there's wine on tap in Vancouver.
Fine art, indeed
Scope out the local arts scene along Railway St., beginning with Railtown Studios From there, you'll find everything from furniture to industrial design as you pick your way toward Aritzia's headquarters where Railway hits Alexander. On the way, make sure to stop in on a local legend. You've seen them on the mountain, now see where they're born: Endeavour Snowboards. A Railtown resident for two and a half years, Endeavour moved here from Gastown to find more space for their design office and Archetype Snowboard lab. Stop by and politely ask if you can see some mad science.
See the sights
What makes Railtown unique is its texture. The neighbourhood has a genuine city-of-industry feel to it. Even the green spaces are watched by giant cranes, looking like steel dinosaurs looming out of the fog on a cold morning. Street art is also popping up; so look left, look right, and look up.
CRAB Park boasts a massive lawn and children's playground. "CRAB" stands for Create a Real Available Beach; the full name of the park is "CRAB Park at Portside", but you don't have to say the whole thing. Eshpeter is a fan of walking meetings to and from CRAB Park. Beats staring at the wall in a conference room.
As Main Street becomes the bridge to CRAB Park, turn west and check out the view of Vancouver's skyline.
Then look east to see the massive cranes working under the watchful eyes of the bridge's cement dragons. Eshpeter and Kolke agreed that Railtown's proximity to the port reminds its new creative industries that they are all part of the same dynamic: where Vancouver connects with the rest of the world.
Neighbourhood index: Railtown
Transit *** (out of 5)
Railtown is easily accessed by bus, either along Powell, Cordova, or Main (4, 7, 209, 210, 211, 214). However, you'll still have to do the last block or so on foot.
Parking **
Street parking is snapped up early by those who work here. You're either stuck with paid parking lots, or stashing your car further east. Trying to park in Gastown is just silly.
Culture ****
Bring your friends to Railtown if they're visiting from a metropolis. Visit for a photo shoot. Come for the food and drink. Railtown is at a crucial stage in its history. Be a part of it.
Street noise *
Railtown is surprisingly quiet, considering it's bordered by the DTES and a shipping yard.
Bikability *****
There's very little traffic through Railtown, so cycling is a breeze. You can also play Spot the Fixie.
Kid-friendliness *
Only CRAB Park would really hold a small child's attention. Overall, this is pretty much a grownups' neighbourhood.
Run this town
Are you the undisputed king or queen of your neighbourhood? Do you know your block like the back of your hand? Prove it! Show us your favorite spots and help us prove that Vancouver isn't just about chain stores, interchangeable sports bars, and generic family-style restaurants.